MEXICO CITY (AP) — A blunt criticism of Mexican bread by a British baker sparked a cascade of social media outrage, eventually leading to a public apology.
In an interview for a food-themed podcast that has resurfaced online, Richard Hart, co-founder of Mexico City’s Green Rhino Bakery and a prominent figure in international baking circles, said Mexicans “don’t really have much of a bread culture,” adding that “they make sandwiches on these white, ugly rolls that are already cheap and cheaply industrialized.”
His comments quickly spread on Instagram, TikTok and X, with many Mexicans accusing him of dismissing and insulting traditional Mexican breads.
What began as a bread controversy quickly ignited a national debate about food identity — not only over who defines Mexican culinary tradition, but also over the growing influence of foreigners in a capital strained by American expats and tourist crowds.
“He insulted the community of bakers in Mexico and all Mexicans who love bread, which is almost everyone,” said Daniela Delgado, a student at the University of Mexico City.
‘Don’t mess with Bolilo’
Social media was quickly flooded with memes, reaction videos, and impassioned defenses of Mexican bread. Users took to social media to praise the everyday staples — from the crusty bolillo used for tortas to the iconic concha found in neighborhood bakeries. In many cases, these simple street foods act as a unifying factor across social groups and classes, and often cut to the core of a country’s cultural identity.
While wheat bread was introduced to Mexico during the colonial period, the classic food staple developed into a distinct national tradition, combining European techniques with local flavors and ingredients. Today, small neighborhood bakeries are central to daily life in towns and cities, serving as social centers as well as food sources.
The incident prompted many to question why a foreign entrepreneur would publicly disparage a staple so deeply embedded in Mexican life. For many, Hart’s comments echoed concerns about gentrification in the capital, along with long-standing frustrations that foreign chefs and restaurants receive a disproportionate reputation.
“Don’t mess with Bolillo,” warned one viral post on X.
‘learning opportunity’
As criticism mounted, Hart issued a public apology on Instagram, saying his comments were misinterpreted and disrespectful to Mexico and its people. He acknowledged the emotional response and said he was not treated as a “guest”.
“I made a mistake,” Hart said in his statement. “I deeply regret it.”
The Associated Press reached out to Green Rhino, but representatives for the bakery declined to comment.
Hart previously worked in high-profile bakeries in the United States and Europe and has been part of Mexico City’s growing artisanal bread scene. That market caters mainly to middle- and upper-class customers, many of them foreigners, looking for sourdough bread and European-style pastries, often at higher prices than neighboring bakeries.
The apology did nothing to quell the immediate debate. While some users accepted it, others said it failed to address deeper concerns about cultural rights and that criticized Mexican traditions.
“If you want to be a part of Mexican culture by owning a restaurant or a bakery, you have to educate yourself,” Delgado said.
Like José Martínez, the chef at the Mexican Culinary School said he’s glad the debate is happening because it opens the door to a more robust and nuanced discussion.
Mexican bread has long been criticized domestically for its industrialization and reliance on white flour and sugar. But many, like Martinez, say those conversations are different and more nuanced when they are led by Mexicans rather than foreign entrepreneurs.
“This is an opportunity to learn about Mexican bread-making and pastry culture, to be proud of it, to highlight the richness of our ingredients and to stop thinking that the so-called First World represents the ultimate standard,” said Martinez.
___
Follow AP’s coverage of Latin America and the Caribbean at https://apnews.com/hub/latin-america
