With names like sentimental, immersive, chaos and fragility, Fashion Snoops’ four themes for menswear autumn/winter 2024-2025 reflect the times.
In a webinar hosted by Mmgnet Group, Michael Fisher, Fashion Snoops’ VP of menswear, described the drivers of each theme and how they translate into apparel, footwear and accessories.
“Nostalgia will give us a break from all the harder, darker realities we’re dealing with every day,” Fisher said. Although there is a collective sense of uncertainty, he said there are still lessons to be learned and “wisdom imparted” that will allow society to “recontextualize the past to better understand the complexities of today.”
This sentimental mindset is driving consumers to value craft, recycling and mending, and to seek more information about the origins of their clothing and the ingredients that go into making it. “The goal here is to embrace some of the assets, skills and thinking of the past to create a truly new way of design,” Fisher said.
There is also a desire to add “cinematic charm” to everyday life, he added. This is where heritage-quality maximalist designs stand out. Timeless items like coats are gaining popularity with Gen Z, as well as bolder items like outerwear with blanket or quilt-inspired patterns, belted cardigans with shawl collars and embroidered sweats.
“Grandma chic” details like embroidery, beading and lace trims are also moving into the menswear space, looking “super cool” styled with rugged items like denim or cotton canvas, Fisher said.
Artificial intelligence is pushing the imagination into new areas. Meanwhile, economic and environmental instability are driving consumers to make more pragmatic purchases. “We see this huge preference for consumers who want products that help them adopt a ready-for-anything mindset. Adaptability remains key,” Fisher said.
These ideas result in a collision of activewear and menswear tailoring. Suits of “techno crepes and other spongy wools” look fresh for tailoring especially with “high-quality bold color-blocking effects,” he said. High-gloss parkas, paneled hoods and mesh overlays offer futuristic function. Denim finds its habit with surfaces that have “broken effects”.
For accessories, look for shoes with 3D printed outsoles and color gradients. Metallic leather shopping and “orbital-shaped” jewelry support the theme’s sci-fi influence.
“There’s a lot of anarchy in the universe, and it can be disturbing and liberating at the same time,” Fisher said. However, “without that volatility, we wouldn’t have an appreciation for protection and belonging,” he added.
Distrust in hierarchies, institutions and stewardship, and the rise of open source operations following supply chain disruptions and ESG reporting are examples of society that is constantly adapting and evolving.
“It is often said that chaos leads to life [and] it creates a wide range of possibilities and pushes us to be more comfortable with the unknown,” Fisher said.
These feelings come together in Chaos, a trend that values repaired surfaces, fragmented constructions, brutalist forms and industrial craftsmanship. Taking cues from Rick Owens, Fisher said to look for moto stitching, exposed leather and frayed or frayed fabrics. “It’s meant to be a sensory overload,” he said of the total look.
Fossilized-looking dark neutrals and fiery shades of red and orange are combined with useful details like exposed zippers and large pockets. Key items include hoodies with quilted details, knit sweaters, ruffled coats and cargo pants.
The complete antithesis of Chaos is Fragility, a theme focused on the “soft weapon of vulnerability”.
“It’s essential to acknowledge and emphasize how design leans towards softer, more nurturing feminine qualities. We want to honor perceived feminine traits like intuition, caring and emotional intelligence,” said Fisher.
Consumers are finding solace in solitude and prioritizing rest and recovery through meditation and digital detox breaks. Fisher added that the dialogue around the nuances of mental health is allowing design to take on a “more holistic lens.”
This is translated into fashion through light surfaces with a luxurious sheen, neutrals with a “light luminescence” and medium earth tones. Fisher added that streetwear and classic tailoring find a middle ground with boxy rugby shirts, soft pleated trousers that “cascade down to the shoes” and tweed work shirts.