We went to the Strait of Hormuz. Here’s what we saw. 02:00
It took a few weeks to plan to get to the Strait of Hormuz.
We studied the map. Talked through scenarios. How we get in, how we get out. Who can we call if something goes wrong? And what if we run into trouble along the way.
Our plan was to approach the narrowest point of the strait. Close enough to see, for us, the oil tankers and cargo ships that had been backing up there for weeks.
We made the call after Pakistan-brokered ceasefire came into effect between US, Israel and Iran. The first round of talks in Islamabad failed. But the truce largely held, and for a moment, the risk felt manageable.
We drove from one Gulf country to another and eventually found ourselves on a coastal road that felt almost too beautiful to stress offshore.
On one side were jagged mountains rising straight up from the ground, completely bare of vegetation. On the other side, the clear blue water spread out into the bay.
And then, turning up the road, we saw the ships. Not one or two, but dozens. Sit quietly. waiting
Two ships near the Strait of Hormuz. / Credit: CBS News
Approaching the Strait of Hormuz
It’s easy to forget, looking at that body of water, that nearly 20% of the world’s oil flows through it. The strait became a pressure point in the war between the US and Iran, turning into a choke point for the global economy.
Access to waterways has been tightly controlled since the violence escalated. Journalists are not meant to live in these waters.
So we tried another way.
At a small port, posing as tourists, we asked around. quietly
There he met Sharif. His real name is not used. Sharif is from Egypt and has spent decades on the coast. In normal times, he told us, tourists would be lining up to take him on a sea trip. Now, almost no one was.
An empty sailing boat. / Credit: CBS News
After some discussion he agreed to take us. We paid $120 for two hours.
His boat was a traditional dhow: wooden, planked, painted gray. The type that has been used in these waters for generations. Inside, embroidered cushions lined the seats.
We boarded the ship.
A friendly meeting
Out on the water, the first thing that strikes you is how quiet it all is.
The sea is flat. The coastline is dramatic but still. For a moment, it’s hard to reconcile what you see with everything you know about what’s going on here.
Then the dolphin appeared. They came to the side of the boat and sat with us, rising, basking in the sunlight, sinking.
Imtiaz Taib by boat in the Strait of Hormuz. / Credit: CBS News
And then, beyond them, the ships. You don’t have to go far to see them. Within minutes, they appeared: tankers, cargo ships, all sitting idle.
We did not dare to approach them. The police ship was clearly visible from a distance. But, at one point, a crew of what looked like a cargo ship raised its hand.
We are back.
He waved a peace sign.
The crew members wave. / Credit: CBS News
Iran and the US are fighting for control
The calmness on the surface of the strait does not reflect the reality below.
In recent weeks, Iran has moved to assert control over who can pass through the waterway and has reportedly mined parts of it. At the same time, the United States imposed a naval blockade targeting ships entering or leaving Iranian ports, part of a broader effort to pressure Tehran on its own energy exports after talks failed.
The result is not a simple closure. It’s a bit more complicated.
Some ships are running. Others are waiting. Many are hedging, delaying, or returning altogether.
For the global economy, even that level of disruption is important. A narrow waterway, carrying a fifth of the world’s oil, doesn’t have to be completely shut down to send shock waves through markets.
Awaiting ship. / Credit: CBS News
A new deal does not mean stability
When it was time for our dhoma, we headed back towards the shore.
We thanked Sharif. paid him. He watched as he prepared to leave again in case another customer appeared.
On the drive back, our phones started lighting up.
Iranian Foreign Minister Abbas Araghchi announced that the strait would be fully opened to commercial shipping during a cease-fire in Lebanon. That agreement, a 10-day pause between Israel and Lebanon, is part of a broader effort to prevent the conflict from escalating further.
At the same time, President Trump signaled that US pressure on Iran, including a maritime blockade, would remain until a comprehensive deal was reached.
Some ships have already started moving again. But here, movement does not mean stagnation or a return to normality.
The strait may be open, at least for now. But the road is still under control. The risks have not disappeared. And the truces that have held things together are temporary.
If a broad agreement comes together, the moment could mark the peak of one of the most volatile periods for global energy in years.
If it doesn’t, what we see on the water may be the new normal: ships waiting. Others tread carefully. Everyone adjusting in real time.
In the Strait of Hormuz, even calm water can sit on top of something very fragile.
